Patagonia Greatest Hits

Travels in Patagonia with los abuelos

Travels in Patagonia with los abuelos

All things considered, our kids travelled like pros for three weeks as we explored Patagonia, Buenos Aires and Colonia de Sacramento in Uruguay with Erica’s parents.  Much to the kids’ dismay we managed to squeeze in some study time along the way, but the best part was watching them learn simply by seeing new and amazing sights along the way.  At times it can difficult to appreciate how wonderful this time together has been for all of us when Ben is squealing, Elliott’s yelling or Molly’s screaming about how her clothes are too tight.  It sometimes takes just a deep breath and a look out the window at the gorgeous lakes of Bariloche to gain perspective (terrific wine doesn’t hurt either).

This segment of our year abroad marked 6 months since we left Portland, Molly’s 4th birthday, a long anticipated trip to Patagonia, a visit from grandparents and our 2nd border crossing to renew our 90 day tourist stamp.  We thought it would be fun to share some of the kids’ favorite experiences from the trip south.  Needless to say the best part for all of them was seeing Grandma and Grandpa.

Elliott

  1. Bariloche chocolate (check this out!)
  2. Seeing all the glaciers (Parque Nacional Los Glaciares near El Calafate)
  3. Hanging out with Grandma and Grandpa and the boat captain on the glacier boat ride

Ben

  1. Our house in Bariloche was awesome
  2. Seeing the lake monster and playing in the fort (Lago Nahuel Huapi)

    Playing in a driftwood shelter on the beach near Llao Llao

    Playing in a driftwood shelter on the beach near Llao Llao

  3. Eating lots of hamburguesas and drinking Fanta

Molly

  1. My birthday cake

    Molly's 4th birthday cake in Bariloche

    Molly’s 4th birthday cake in Bariloche

  2. My smoothie at the hotel in Bariloche

    Savoring a smoothie at Hotel Llao Llao

    Savoring a smoothie at Hotel Llao Llao

  3. Seeing the glaciers

A few other good times captured on film include:

Being tourists in Bariloche

Being tourists in Bariloche

Elliott on the Cerro Catedral chairlift

Elliott on the Cerro Catedral chairlift

Taking a bet to swim in Lago Gutierrez

Taking a bet to swim in Lago Gutierrez

Hace mucho calor!

Summer in December is in full stride here.  Temperatures are regularly topping 90 degrees.  We hear the afternoon tormentas that break the heat every few days will increase after the first of the year.  These storms are an impressive demonstration of nature’s fury with howling winds, lightening and thunder.  The rain that follows the wind can only be described as a deluge, transforming the streets into canals.

A big part of our verbal argument to the kids when making the move south was that we would find a house with a pool.  We lucked out and were able to deliver on this promise, and it’s paying huge dividends right now.  It’s doubtful we will ever live in a house with a pool again, so it’s been a great experience so far for the kids.  Along with providing hours of physical entertainment to the kids when they otherwise would probably be driving each other nuts, the kids are rapidly becoming awesome swimmers.  Molly in particular has made giant strides in just a month.  The swimming lessons included at her preschool have obviously made an impact for her.

Ben’s Camping Trip

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Ben’s 1st grade class had an overnight camping trip at the school on Thursday night so we thought this would be a great experience for him to recount in his own words. Karma goes to the parents (not us) who sacrificed their night to give the kids this experience.

“We played volleyball, karate and I got an orange belt cause I already know karate.  Then we ate hamburgers, I ate at least 5.  I sat with my friend Ignacio.  We roasted marshmallows and I burnt mine.  I showed my friends how to burn theirs.  We made s’mores and I had 5.  Afterwards an Indian came, which was a fake one, cause they don’t exist.  We made hats and put our handprints on them.  We slept in the class on the floor.  My friend Santi brought a mattress for me.  I tried to sleep but so many girls and boys were talking.  My favorite part was doing karate.  We got to punch wood that was really thin. ”

-Ben

It was awesome seeing Ben completely comfortable in all the chaos of 30 kids totally amped for a sleepover.  This was one night after the police strike in Cordoba that resulted in looting and a city-wide lockdown, so tensions were still a little high.  We were not sure if he would be scared overnight, but all was well.   I picked him up the next morning and he was asleep on the couch an hour later.  To prepare and recover, the school was kind enough to cancel school for Ben’s whole class Thursday and Friday.  2 more weeks of school for the boys before summer break!

-Rob

Idioma

Learning language as a family has been a wonderful, yet challenging experience for all of us.  It’s been fascinating to see how we each learn differently over the past 4 months.   A big part of life for us here is simply the ability to communicate.  Each action requires advance thought on what we need to say and how.  Talking on the phone is incredibly difficult.  For the kids it’s simply been trial by fire with school.  Molly’s been in her daycare for a month now and is showing progress already.  The boys have been at Zorrilla for nearly 3 months now!  Both schools are 100% Spanish.   Needless to say , we all have good days and bad days.  I thought since we’re coming up on 3 months in Argentina I’d sum up how we’re each individually doing on this front.

A little background on all of our language and Spanish instruction prior to leaving the States first…Erica’s minor in college was French, so I like to think she’s sort of cheating on all of this.  French is so similar in structure to Spanish her progress has been great.  She and I also took several intensive courses in Portland last winter.  My two years of Spanish in high school have been embarrassingly worthless (sorry Ms. Boyer-Root) as was my investment in Rosetta Stone 2 years ago.  Ben completed Spanish immersion kindergarten at Beach School in Portland in June, and Elliott completed 4th grade.  Our time in Costa Rica was intended to provide Erica and I with the basics and sharpen the boys.   Erica and I have now had two months of one-on-one instruction at a local language school here in Cordoba.

I describe my Spanish as muy basico on a regular basis.  I’m very good at saying, “Me Espanol no es bueno, lo siento.”  Despite my language disabilities, it has been amazing to reflect on how far I’ve come individually since July.  Each day I try to set small goals and study for an hour.  My most recent trick is to jot down 3 or 4 verbs or phrases to memorize on the walk or run back from the boy’s school.  I think the Argentine moms dropping off their kids wonder about the mumbling gringo in workout gear.  I’m also trying to have the local news on the TV in the mornings when getting ready.  Poco y poco as they say.  With the kids in school and other activities, we are fortunately forced to regularly be in situations where we have to speak Spanish and interact, rather than be isolated in our own little world.  Learning Spanish for me is a roller coaster.  One day I walked out of 3 hours of class feeling confident and a woman asked me for the time.  I was stumped.  Nada.  I had to show her my watch.  Then again, yesterday two different people asked me for directions (happens to Erica and I all the time here!) and not only did I understand them, but I was able to give them directions!

It took all of 2 days in Costa Rica for our teacher to recognize that Erica was the better half in terms of learning language.  We’ve been in different classes ever since.  Having had a strong background in French, the transition to Spanish has gone great for her.  She tends to understand far more in a conversation that I do and has become fluid in speech.

Witnessing the kids learn a language has undoubtedly been the most rewarding part of our time so far.  Yes, the boys attended a Spanish immersion school in Portland, but it was nothing compared to this immersion!  Ben and Elliott had a disagreement the other day about whether Castellano was truly Spanish.  Castellano is the Spanish dialect that’s spoken here.  Right now I’m listening to the boys play a board game with a friend in Spanish.  School, rugby and play with friends in general is totally in Spanish.  Ben has gained the most in terms of speech and comprehension.  He is completely fluent and seems to be at the perfect age for this experience.  He regularly corrects our Spanish and seems amused at our pronunciation.  Erica overheard Ben and a friend playing the other day and couldn’t discern who was who.  Rugby has had a big impact on Elliott’s learning.  He tends to be more cautious about making a mistake and doesn’t speak as much as Ben, but play and sport removes a lot of that.  Molly’s beginning to try out new words now and then.  I heard her say, “gracias” in her sleep the other night.  Despite the fact that no one at her daycare speaks English, she’s unfazed.  We’ve been told that after 6 months or so she should be conversational.

That’s not to say it’s all rosy though.  With the exception maybe being Ben, we all have our daily challenges learning and adapting to the language here.  Molly seems to think that boys at her daycare are mean to her since she doesn’t understand them.  Elliott struggles to understand lessons in school and homework.  While Elliott is our social butterfly, school and learning here has been rough.  His learning difficulties go way back and are certainly exacerbated by the complete language barrier here.  We hope we’ve made some progress after a meeting with his teachers this past week.  Reading, writing and processing remains his challenge rather than speech and oral communication.  Ben’s challenge remains the tallest 6th grade girl with her heart set on him.

The past 4 months have been a great reminder of how much we take for granted our own language.  Simply stepping out the door to run an errand can become exhausting sometimes.   One of our primary reasons for planning such an extended experience was to ensure that we integrated within the community and truly learned the language.  We are certainly witnessing how valuable it can be to have plenty of time to do so.  Everyday Erica and I seem to pick up new words and comprehend more.  The kids seem less homesick and more comfortable in their surroundings as the language gets easier.

Off to Buenos Aires tonight on a night bus for our first border crossing trip.  After a few days in BA we will spend about a week at Punta del Este, Uruguay.  More on that soon!  Chau chau!

Day in the Life

Viernes 04 de octubre: A busy day in the life

7:30 AM:  Up and at ’em!  Coffee on, check email, FB and a few hotel options in BA for an upcoming trip.  Solo breakfast of left-over cornmeal pancakes, fried steak and egg before chaos ensues.

8:00 AM:  Chaos ensues when waking the kids for the day.  A Molly no le gusta la manana.  Shades open and breakfast requests made.  The kids have morning and night checklists now for basic stuff.   They include getting dressed and making beds before breakfast among other duties.  $5 pesos can be earned daily for compliance.  Screaming and yelling follows when Molly realizes she’s supposed to wear her swimsuit under her clothes today for daycare.  Friday is pool day!  Molly’s preference is to wear no clothing at all, so the idea of a tight suit under clothes is unbearable.   Molly loses screen time today.

9:00 AM:  Daddy bolts for Spanish class.  The boys begin their morning tutoring and homework with Erica despite Molly’s tortured wails.  The school that Erica and I take Spanish lessons at is a 20 minute walk from the house.

9:30 AM-12:30 PM:  Today my twice weekly class seems so tranquil after the crazy morning.  One-on-one with the teacher leaves me exhausted after 3 hours.  Today we work on reflexive and irregular verbs.  Erica walks Molly 2 blocks up to her daycare.   Drop-off has been going well for the week, but today started out rough, so she cries.  Daddy usually drops her off as a result.  Elliott works on science and Ben on math today.  We’re using a variety of home school books, but primarily the What Your XXXX Grader Needs to Know, by E.D. Hirsch, Jr.  The 3 strikes rule is working better for curbing freak-outs during this time each day.  Afterwards the boys entertain themselves by watching some baby pigeons in the backyard try to fly.

12:30 PM-1:30 PM:  Erica picks up Molly from daycare, and she had fun!  Today was the first day she decided to actually swim.  Erica feeds the kids lunch and gets the boys ready for school.  I finish up class and step out to catch a bus downtown.  We need money so time to visit the money guy.  The process of getting money in Argentina is a whole other post someday on its own!  I wait for the nicer, diferencial bus for the 20 minute ride to Centro.  Erica starts walking about 1pm with the kids to school (the walk to school takes about 25 minutes with the kids) but runs into Elliott’s friend’s mother, who gives the boys a ride.  Bonus since now Molly can have a nap!!

2:00 PM-3:30 PM:  After Molly’s nap Erica walks to the school kiosko to volunteer as kids scream in candy orders rapidly in Spanish during each recess.  Molly tags along today.  The kiosko is solely staffed by the equivalent of the PTA and raises money for the school.  We think incorporating a small shop that sells vast quantities of soda and candy to kids during the school day at Beach School back in North Portland would go over well.   After 3 previous trips to the office downtown where I pick up money I finally remember the correct bus stop.  Downtown during siesta is packed but my sense of direction is improving in Centro and find the office with little problems.   After a little chit-chat I descend the elevator with a large wad of pesos on my person.   Since we are planning a trip to Uruguay and Buenos Aires soon, I stop in across the street at the local Buquebus office to purchase 5 roundtrip ferry/bus tickets using my newly acquired pesos.  Fortunately they’re open despite siesta!  This takes longer than expected, but after an hour I leave with our tickets and exhausted after 3 hours of class plus an hour speaking completely in Spanish with the ticket agent.

3:30 PM-4:00 PM:  Before the bus ride back to our barrio, I stop in a La Tasca near San Martin Square for a bite to eat.  Little old men in bright red coats are servers, and seem to outnumber the customers.  I thoroughly enjoy a Quilmes beer and small pizza complete with the hearts of palm that seem to be on every pizza I end up with.

5:00 PM:  After short wait for another diferencial bus, I’m back where I started get off about 6 blocks from the boys school.  I walk up and relieve Erica of Molly’s company at the kiosko, if only for a short time before school’s out at 5:30.  Molly and I head back home, first stopping at the corner toy school to load up on a few birthday presents for the coming weekend and 3 scheduled parties.   We all end up back home about the same time.

6:30 PM:  Manuel (neighbor and rugby coach) honks and the boys race out the door to rugby practice.  Manuel is a saint and Elliott’s become good friends with his son, Santi.  My beautiful wife brings me a gin & tonic as I start on our dinner of fettuccine with squash, arugula and lemon!

9:30 PM:  Boys return and chow down.  We all devour the remains of a pint of Bariloche helado for dessert when  plates are cleaned.  The boys escape showers since they have a game in the morning and kids are in bed by 10pm.  1 kid out of 3 earns $5 pesos today.

Rinse and repeat

1 month!

We fly to San Jose, Costa Rica on July 12th!  Lots to do still, but to mark the one month mark I thought I’d have Ben and Molly practice their Spanish.  

Last week of school for the kids here in Portland.  Busy, busy packing and planning still.  Erica and I are ramping up our search for a rental home in Cordoba.  Our house here in Portland hasn’t rented yet, but the car is gone!  Last day of work is 6/28.

Unloading

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In a plan with a lot of benchmarks along the way, we’re hitting the final stretch. Two big ones are getting close. Our property manager showed our house for rent for the first time today and it looks like my car is sold pending an inspection! Securing a tenant for a year is obviously critical to making ends meet. Hopefully all the work during Family Clean Night paid off, we’ll see. Selling the car is the final budget chunk needed.

The kids seem completely unfazed by the idea of complete strangers living in our house for the next year. Elliott did ask what we’re doing with the bunk beds today though. So far fairly vague answers are working. For the most part they’ve been blissfully unaware of our massive cleansing projects. We sold a couch 4 months ago and they never said a word!

A huge part of the preparation and planning process has been unloading belongings and gradual packing. This has actually been enormously cathartic for Erica and I. Deciding what went to Goodwill or on Craigslist was a lot more difficult 1 year ago. It’s easy now as we get closer. We’ve become expert Craigslist merchandisers over the past year and have sold over 30 items according to my count. A brief list of our sales: turkey blind, TV, croquet set, paper shredder, air conditioner, shotgun, 3 bikes, electric smoker, baby changing table, desk, and a rocking chair.

The packing effort is in full swing and out in the open with the kids thankfully. The goal now is to pack as much as possible early to avoid a complete panic as we approach departure day. Thus the guest room is now the storage room.

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Surprise!

A dramatization of the moment we told Molly and Ben.  Elliott's first reaction not worth repeating.

A reenactment of the moment we told Molly and Ben. Elliott’s first reaction was not worth repeating.

First post!  One of our (ok mine mostly) biggest worries was the reaction our kids would have to our crazy plan.  Selling belongings, moving schools and leaving friends are things that I didn’t imagine a 10 year old as social as Elliott would understand too well.  After months and months talking in code to each other, Erica and I finally let the kids in on the plan on 4/21.  My carefully scripted notes went out the window as Erica just let fly.  The contrast in styles was well documented during this parenting moment.  We started by telling them that we had some very exciting plans to share. We were going to go on a family adventure and live in Argentina for a year! Ben guessed it before she could finish and was super excited. Molly just jumped up and down. It took Elliott a few seconds to absorb “one year.” After a few minutes of rebellion and refusals to go, he asked if he’d be able to play soccer on the field we’d showed him a photo of from our scouting trip the week prior. A hasty confirmation on our part sealed the deal. No more questions from the clan. For now. Whew. Resiliency of children confirmed.  Away we go.  Ben does now ask for a daily countdown to departure though.