Condors & Jesuits

Hosting family visiting from the States have given us ample excuse to tour the region around Cordoba and play the tour guide.  With my Dad visiting this month we  managed to visit some of Cordoba’s most historic sites and stunning scenery prior to heading out to Salta and Mendoza.

Jesuit estancia of Santa Catalina, north of Cordoba

Jesuit estancia of Santa Catalina, north of Cordoba

The city of Cordoba is ringed by a number of estancias built by Jesuit missionaries in the 16th century.  Many of these sites are Unesco World Heritage sites, as is the Manzana Jesuitica in central Cordoba.

Museo Jesuitico Nacional de Jesus Maria, built in 1618 in the pueblo of Jesus Maria north of Cordoba.

Despite eventually being expelled from the continent by the Spanish, the Jesuits left an enduring legacy in the Cordoba area.  Most of their settlements and institutions remain today.  Founded by the Jesuits, the National University of Cordoba is one of the oldest universities in South America.

Museo Historico Nacional del Virrey Liniers, in Alta Gracia south of Cordoba

Museo Historico Nacional del Virrey Liniers, in Alta Gracia south of Cordoba

The Jesuits utilized a number of large farm facilities in the surrounding valleys to generate income for their mission.  Sad to say the kids have seemed most interested in the old bathroom facilities used by the Jesuits.  The wine making equipment and workshops where slave craftsmen built everything from nails to ornate works of art for use in the church are fascinating.  Each estancia was centered around an iglesia.  We found the displays and overall state of the Jesuit Estancia in Alta Gracia to be the best we’ve visited so far.

Jesuit Estancia, Alta Gracia

Jesuit Estancia, Alta Gracia

In addition to the amazing history left behind by the Jesuits, the surrounding mountains are a wonderful way to experience the Cordoba area.  Just over an hour drive to the southwest of Cordoba lie the Sierras Grandes.

Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito

Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito

Rather than the low, rolling hills covered in scrub brush that define the Sierras Chicas nearby, the Sierras Grandes rise sharply out of the valley and are vast.  The summit of this range is an open, rocky grassland called the Pampa de Achala rising to about 5,000 ft.

The quebrada (gorge) where condors nest and learn to fly.

The quebrada (gorge) where condors nest and learn to fly.

Halfway between Cordoba and Mina Clavero is Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito.  Despite a blustery day, Dad and I had a great hike to a clifftop viewpoint above a stunning gorge.  Although we saw only a few condors soaring high above, we had a great view of giant white streaks of condor poop against the cliffs.

Balcon Norte, near La Pampilla in Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito.

Balcon Norte, near La Pampilla in Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito.

The highway to the park is in great condition and provides amazing views of the rugged terrain.  We rented a car for the weekend to a few estancias and in particular for the trip up to La Pampilla.  Although I’ve read it’s possible by bus to access the park, I wouldn’t want to try it.

Next up, Salta and Mendoza!

Management Lessons From Argentina

Prior to moving to Argentina I worked for the Portland Business Journal as a sales manager.  As a young manager I gleaned what knowledge I could from a number of more experienced managers and sales trainers.  I recall my mentor George telling me early on just how similar managing salespeople could be to parenting.  Our superb sales trainer at the time, Jeff Schneider, hammered the key tenets and roles a sales manager must play into me while also drawing many such parenting analogies.  While traveling and living abroad as a family, I  have been repeatedly reminded just how much parenting can mirror sales management challenges.  The lesson I suppose is that it can be more difficult than one might think to escape entirely from reality and thoughts of work while on sabbatical.  While I don’t claim to be the best parent or manager, the lessons provided by these men provide a wonderful goal to aim for whether it be while managing a sales team or a family experiencing life south of the border.

The four primary roles of a sales manager I was taught are coach, mentor, trainer and supervisor.  As Jeff so wisely pointed out, most sales managers end up focusing primarily on supervision, an eerily similar problem faced by Erica and I here!  I’d like to share a few additional management lessons I’ve learned thanks to living abroad as a family.

Manage the individual, not the team

Just as salespeople are unique individuals and require an individual approach, living abroad together has illustrated just how different our kids are.  We’ve spent A LOT of time together.  It’s been a fascinating and rewarding experience to discover what approach might inspire one of the kids, while having zero impact on the others.  Freed from the responsibilities of a job while we live in Argentina, I’m grateful to have the time and energy now to truly learn about my kids.  They are all highly motivated by any electronic device of course. Elliott tends to be very money motivated, Ben not at all.  Sport of any kind and socializing with friends drives Elliott.  Ben loves having friends over for play dates, but sport, eh.   Elliott cherishes access to his email account we opened for him to keep in touch with friends at home.  Ben has one also but we have to nag him to use it.  On the other hand Ben loves rocking out with his headphones and iPod.  Michael Jackson and Charlie Daniels are favorites.  Molly loves the iPad and pleasing others.  She might be freaking out about her shoes not fitting one minute and kissing your hand the next.  Not unlike seeking the right formula for a sales rep, Ben’s a tough cookie.  We’ll let you know when we figure that out!

Be humble

As any good sales manager knows, you want your salesperson to be a better rep than you.  Well, I can tell you that my kids and wife excel at speaking Spanish while I simply manage the logistics of our existence here.  While I would love to be more fluent, I recognize my own strengths and weaknesses.  The other day at rugby, Ben was speaking to Erica with a new friend looking on.  Afterward Erica overheard the friend ask,”Hablás inglés, vos?”  Nothing makes us happier.

Lead during times of change

Our team at the Portland Business Journal went through a tremendous amount of change while I was a manager.  Learning how to manage during times of change while also learning to be a manager was incredibly difficult, but not so unlike our current status.  Our kids have adapted amazingly well to living in Argentina.  Their world has turned upside and yet they have just rolled with it all from the start.  When we started selling furniture on Craigslist last year, they barely batted an eye.  We moved in with a Costa Rican family of 5 for 3 weeks and enrolled in a language school.  We tossed Ben and Molly in a taxi with the school director each day to go to kindergarten in Spanish.  We lived out of a hotel in Cordoba for 2 weeks!  No problem.  Well, minor issues that we can gloss over now.  We threw the boys into a public school that is 100% Spanish.  We jumped on an overnight bus to Buenos Aires.  All things considered, the kids have been champs.  I like to think that they have been relatively unfazed because of the confidence Erica and I have tried to project despite our own concerns.  Although scared out of our minds and unsure at times during this adventure, we have always positioned each trial or phase as a new adventure.  I don’t recall who started it, but we began a corny Team Vaughn chant completed with hands in to kick off meaningful new adventures before we even left Portland.

Motivation by trial and error

Our challenge to provide motivation for the kids began the moment we sprung our plans on them a year ago. We pulled out the stops with stories from our scouting trip about meat, ice cream and swimming pools. When we were in Costa Rica incentives took the form of a trip to the public pool after a good behavior day at language school.  This trial and error continued in Cordoba when we came up with the Morning List, The Big 3 and the Night List.  While we’d tried a number of similar things in Portland, we actually managed to find the time and motivation to stick with it here.  In an effort to teach responsibility and maintain our own sanity, we came up with a few basic things the kids should do on their own without endless nagging and reminders.  Morning and Night includes stuff like get dressed, make the bed, and brush teeth.  The Big 3 believe it or not are flush, wash hands and lights off in the bathroom.  I cringe to envision life with 3 boys rather than 2.  Successful completion of these tasks on a daily basis is rewarded with 5 pesos each.  Given the ready availability of kioscos and sugar this has proven to be a fairly productive incentive so far.  I won’t lie though. It’s not uncommon for the boys to have a debt tally on the fridge when motivation devolves into supervision. Homework, behavior at school and our home school efforts have provided endless opportunities for experimentation with motivation.  We committed to home school the boys 5 days a week in English since their school day is short compared to the US.  Although not particularly popular with the team, we created a chart per day with subjects including reading, history, math and science.  We have a mix of workbooks, apps, documentaries and games we use to keep it mildly interesting.  Regardless, Ben still manages to try to scratch out math on the chart and make it look like history. We also have learned when to call in the big guns for training help as does any good sales manager.  We finally saw the light and have our wonderful babysitter helping Elliott with his homework twice a week.  It’s a far cry from our painful attempts to interpret assignments using Google Translate, and he’s far less likely to misbehave with a cute 21-year-old Argentine instructing him that ourselves.

Unfortunately, after our best efforts, it sometimes all comes down to banning the kids from electronics, rugby, play dates or loss of pesos.  I learned some of my biggest lessons as a manager from the people who worked for me.  The analogy continues as our children challenge and inspire Erica and I everyday in Argentina.

Asado

It is hard to have a conversation about Argentina for 5 minutes without talking about meat.  We are only half kidding when we list carne as one of our primary reasons for moving to Argentina.  The reverence placed on the asado and its importance in Argentine society can’t be overstated.  The priority placed on family in Argentina is a wonderful change from the States.  Many of our friends grew up in Cordoba and live mere blocks from siblings and parents.  The concept of moving to another city or country for work is rare.  An integral part of this family first culture is the Sunday asado with friends and family.  We have been very fortunate to have had many opportunities to enjoy asado during our time in Cordoba, so while I’m far from an expert asador, its time to share some of the best part of Argentina.  Before I continue though, a brief glossary of terms is necessary:

Asado:  Basically a barbecue.  Though a BBQ in the States might mean an hour with hotdogs and burgers, an invitation to an asado tends to mean you’re on the hook for at least 4 hours, not that you’re watching the clock after the wine and excellent meat.  This is the term for the event itself and the Argentine method of cooking.

The parrilla and tools ready to start

The parrilla and tools ready to start

Parrilla:  The actual barbecue.  This typically references the structure of the actual cooking space that can come in a multitude of designs.  Usually the parrilla is housed within the quincho (next term) and includes the grill and rack for combustibles surrounded by brick.

El quincho

El quincho

Quincho:  This is the eating and socializing space typically separated from the house.  While house hunting in August a realtor asked Erica what the English translation for quincho was.  The realtor was astonished and horrified to find that there is none.  I suppose if you imagine nearly every house in America with a “man cave” built around their BBQ outside, you’d understand the quincho.

Tools of the asador

Tools of the asador

Asador:  The grill master. Lena: The name assigned to any hardwood that’s used for an asado. Typically sold in plastic bags at any kiosco or neighborhood store. Prices range from $13ARS to $25ARS. Carbon:  Charcoal is probably too generous on this, but close.  This is typically lena partially burned and bagged up and available pretty much anywhere.  It tends to be a few pesos cheaper than lena.  While many people prefer the flavor from using lena over carbon, it takes less time to be ready for cooking.  We’ve been slightly amused and pissed to discover the occasional brick in the middle of a few bags of carbon now and then.  A trick to charge more for less based on weight. Carniceria:  The meat market.  It has been fun to gradually learn and experience the difference between cuts of meat in Argentina and the US.  Finding a high quality, reliable carniceria in the barrio has been part of the adventure.  When buying meat for an asado the general rule of thumb is to be prepared for 1 kilo per person.  Much to the chagrin of the nation, Uruguay recently surpassed Argentina in annual beef consumption.  Needless to say they can still put it away nicely.  Standard purchases from a carniceria for an asado tend to include vacio, chorizo, morcilla, matambre and asado (short ribs). Fiambres:  Appetizers.  Typically meat, cheese, olives and bread platters.

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The method of cooking meat in Argentina has been a stark difference from our push button gas grill in Portland.  There’s nothing fast about an asado.  Many families gather on Sundays for a weekly asado, which might be in the shape of lunch or dinner depending on the designated start time.  It is standard for guests to bring sides, salads, bread, desserts or drinks potlack-style while the asador handles the meat.  Depending on preference, the asador will get the lena or carbon started in advance of arriving guests.  The fire is started in a compact, elevated grate to the side of the primary grill.  There is no charbroiled grilling to speak of in our experience.  The idea is to allow the lena or carbon to burn into hot coals before they are shoveled in a thin, even layer under the grill.  Meat preparation is simply olive oil and parrilla salt (basically kosher salt), lots of salt!  A good trick I noticed once was lemon added to some cuts as well, but I’ve never seen anyone use a dry rub or sauce of any kind.  I get the impression that might be blasphemy.  Many parrillas have extra bells and whistles such as grease catchers and grills whose elevation can be changed.  The coals essentially smoke and sear the meat slowly, resulting in a wonderfully smoky flavor.  It’s tricky to learn how to keep adequate coals at the ready as the coals placed under the grill cool in order to maintain even heat and judge what heat will blacken the meat versus cook it perfectly.  As the meat cooks guests snack on wonderful fiambres and hang out in the quincho.

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Typical sides cooked on the parrilla include thinly sliced potatoes with paprika and oil, bell peppers, provolone a la parrilla (provolone cheese with oil in a tin dish cooked until bubbling and served with bread), and onions (tossed directly into the coals and peeled after roasting).  It’s common to serve the cut as it comes off the parrilla rather than wait until all the meat is ready.  In fact at a few man-asados I’ve had the privilege of attending, it’s common to bring your own asado knife and pass around forks to eat communally off the cutting board sin platos.  Salads of tomato, potato, arugula or carrot are pretty typical sides along with bread.  Of course no asado is complete without dessert after the gluttony.  Some of our favorites have been helado and home-made dulce de leche.  If Fernet with Coke appears at the end of the night you can be assured you’ve lived a good life.

Pollo para parrilla

Pollo para parrilla

A huge part of our family’s experience here in Argentina has revolved around the asado.  Given the importance placed on asados and the role it plays in family relations we’ve been exceptionally grateful to have been included in the experience with a number of Cordobeses and expat friends here.  Wherever we land when we return, we hope to carry back the tradition and technique of the asado and build our own quincho.

Costilla, chorizo and vacio

Costilla, chorizo and vacio